You’re paying for gigabit fibre. You run a speed test on your phone and get 300Mbps. Then you head to the bedroom, and the number drops again. Are you getting what you paid for? Or is something else slowing things down?
You’re paying for gigabit fibre. You run a speed test on your phone and get 300Mbps. Then you head to the bedroom, and the number drops again.
Are you getting what you paid for? Or is something else slowing things down?
A lower Wi-Fi result doesn’t automatically mean there’s a problem with your broadband connection. Your router, the device you’re using and even the walls between them can affect the speed you see. Before upgrading your plan or buying new equipment, it’s worth finding out where the slowdown actually happens.
Your fibre connection and your Wi-Fi are different things
Fibre brings the internet into your home through the fibre box on your wall, also called an ONT. Your router then shares that connection with your devices, either wirelessly over Wi-Fi or through an Ethernet cable. These are separate parts of the journey, and either can affect your experience.
A speed test on your phone measures the connection reaching that phone, in that spot, at that moment. It doesn’t measure the fibre connection in isolation. That’s why a result from the far end of the house can look very different from one taken beside the router.
The useful question isn’t just “How fast is my internet?” It’s “Where is it getting slower?”
Start with three simple speed checks
First, check the download and upload speeds listed for your current broadband plan. Then try these checks, ideally using the same laptop and the same speed-test server.
- Test with an Ethernet cable. Connect your laptop directly to your router using a suitable cable and a gigabit-capable Ethernet port or adapter. Turn off the laptop’s Wi-Fi so you know it’s using the cable. Pause large downloads, cloud backups and streaming elsewhere in the house, then run the Broadband Compare speed test.
- Test over Wi-Fi beside the router. Unplug the cable, turn Wi-Fi back on and repeat the test nearby.
- Test where you normally use the internet. Take the same laptop to your desk, bedroom or other problem area and test again.
You’re looking for a pattern. A strong wired result followed by much lower wireless results points towards your Wi-Fi setup. Good Wi-Fi beside the router but poor performance upstairs suggests a coverage issue. Low results even over Ethernet need more investigation, including your equipment and the broadband connection itself.
Repeat the checks rather than relying on one result. A test taken while someone is downloading a game won’t give you the same picture as one taken when the connection is quiet.
Your router needs a better spot than the cupboard
Routers aren’t usually the most attractive thing in the lounge. But hiding one away can make its job harder.
Place yours somewhere open, off the floor and reasonably central to the areas where you use Wi-Fi. A shelf is generally a better starting point than a cupboard or a spot tucked behind furniture.
Walls, floors, distance and electrical appliances can weaken or interfere with wireless signals. A router at one end of a long house has a tougher job reaching a bedroom at the other end, especially when several walls are in the way. Try repositioning it and repeat your tests before spending money on an upgrade.
Check which Wi-Fi band you’re using
Your router may offer different wireless bands: 2.4GHz, 5GHz and, on compatible equipment, 6GHz. They have different strengths.
2.4GHz reaches further, and generally handles walls better, but offers lower speeds and can be more crowded.
5GHz usually offers faster speeds when you have a good signal. It’s worth testing for laptops, phones and other devices used reasonably close to the router.
6GHz offers more room for fast connections, but needs compatible equipment and is generally best at shorter distances. It isn’t a solution for reaching through several thick walls.
Some routers show separate network names for each band. Others combine them under one name and manage the connection automatically. Where separate names are available, try the 5GHz network near the router and compare the result. There’s no need to switch off 2.4GHz altogether, as some devices still need it.
Your laptop or phone could be the limiting factor
Not every device can use the full speed available from a modern router. Wireless hardware matters, so an older laptop and a newer phone can produce different results in exactly the same room. A router’s headline wireless speed is not a promise that every connected device will reach it.
Try a second device in the same spot. When only one device struggles, investigate that device before blaming the whole connection. Install its available software updates and check that your router’s firmware is up to date too. These updates can improve performance, reliability and security.
What about Wi-Fi 6, 6E and 7?
These names describe generations of Wi-Fi technology, not broadband plans.
Wi-Fi 6 can help a router manage a busy household more efficiently. Wi-Fi 6E adds access to the 6GHz band, while Wi-Fi 7 introduces further speed and efficiency improvements. To use the newer capabilities, both your router and your device need to support them. Older devices can still connect to compatible newer routers, but won’t gain every new feature.
The takeaway? Don’t replace a working router just to get a bigger number on the box. Check what your devices support and what problem you’re trying to solve first.
Mesh can help with coverage, but placement still matters
When Wi-Fi works well near the router but struggles in other rooms, a mesh system may help. It uses multiple units around your home to extend coverage rather than relying on one router to reach everywhere.
However, wireless mesh units need a good connection to each other. Putting an extra unit in the very place where the signal has already disappeared can leave it struggling too. Position it between the main router and the problem area, where it can still receive a strong signal. Use the system’s connection test or app to check the placement.
Some mesh systems also let you connect the units using Ethernet cables. This is called wired backhaul. It means the units don’t have to rely on a wireless link to carry traffic between them. Check that the system supports it before planning your setup.
Don’t overlook Ethernet ports and cables
A cable takes Wi-Fi out of the equation, but the equipment at each end still matters.
An older router, network switch or laptop adapter with a 100Mbps Ethernet port will limit traffic passing through that connection. The words “Fast Ethernet” generally mean 100Mbps, while “Gigabit Ethernet” means 1,000Mbps. Check your computer’s adapter as well as the router ports.
For a standard gigabit setup, a good-quality Cat5e or Cat6 cable is suitable. You don’t need an expensive cable simply because your broadband plan is fast, but a damaged or unsuitable cable is worth swapping out during troubleshooting.
Thinking about a 2Gbps Hyperfibre plan? The hardware needs to keep up. A router with a 1Gbps internet-facing port will restrict the connection before it reaches your devices. To get more than 1Gbps on one wired computer, the router’s relevant ports, any switch in between and the computer’s Ethernet adapter all need to support higher speeds.
When should you contact your broadband provider?
Don’t assume every slow connection is your fault.
When repeated wired tests are well below your plan’s expected performance, even after checking your equipment and pausing other heavy usage, contact your provider. Keep a record of the download and upload results, the time of each test and whether you used Ethernet or Wi-Fi. That gives support something more useful to investigate than a single screenshot from your phone.
It’s also worth explaining the actual problem. Is everything slow, or just one device? Does it happen all day or only in the evening? Are you getting low speeds, or does the connection keep dropping? Different symptoms can point to different causes.
Fix the right problem before paying for more speed
A faster broadband plan can help when your household’s combined usage is stretching the capacity of your existing connection. It won’t, by itself, fix a weak Wi-Fi signal in the spare room or remove a hardware limit in an old adapter.
Start with the free checks. Test over Ethernet, compare different rooms, reposition the router and check your devices. Then decide whether you need better coverage, different equipment or a different plan.
When you’re ready to compare, look beyond the biggest speed number. Consider the monthly cost, upload speed, included router, any mesh costs and the contract terms.
Compare broadband plans with Broadband Compare and find an option that suits your home, your usage and your budget.
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